The Great American Hot Dog Book
by Becky Mercuri
Gibbs, Smith, 2007
$12.95, paper
144 pages
Hot dogs are maligned and misunderstood, but without them, certain things just don't happen, including ball games, July 4th, and backyard barbecues.
Hot dogs are an iconic food and despite all the urban myths, from pig snouts to leukemia, hot dogs persist with great brio in every state in the Union, as Becky Mercuri has faithfully recorded in this book. From piled on toppings to secret recipes, everyone has a local favorite.
By the way, hot dogs' reputation as a questionably healthy food goes back to at least their American origins, as Mercuri points out in her introduction. Sausage is a notorious place to hide less than desirable cuts of meat, perhaps the cuts only fit for dogs. The turn of the century Yale students who at the sausages served hot at lunch wagons, christened them hot dogs and the students who ate them were members of the kennel club.
As a business, a hot dog cart was an easy immigrant stake and as people settled regional specialties grew from local food traditions and shaped them as well, from slaw dogs in the South to chili dogs in the West. But to add a bit of flair to their product, many vendors gave their dogs an out-of-town pedigree. So in New Jersey, they eat Texas Weiners, in Rhode Island dogs are cooked and served in the New York System, and Coney Islands are favored everywhere.
Mercuri records these local specialties with recipes and stories from famed purveyors. Some of the regional distinction comes from sausage or buns made locally. I used to be impressed by oenophiles who can sniff out a Merlot from a Malbec. Now I'm impressed by the sophisticated palate that can distinguish a Nathan's from a Sabrett.
The real variations come from the toppings, allowing you to get local flavor at home. And while the toppings vary, they share one characteristic - counterpoint. Tangy, slightly bitter cole slaw, spicy chili, and sweet relish all spark the savory, salty flavor of the hot dog.
South Dakota Sweet Cucumber Relish is indeed a sweet relish of grated onions, carrots, and cucumbers. After sitting in salt, the vegetables are simmered in sugar and vinegar flavored with mustard and celery seeds. I lightened up on the sugar, and found the relish far superior to anything fluorescent green from a jar. It was bright and fresh in the home pickling tradition.
The book is full of chili sauces, mostly without beans, with varying degrees of heat, and some declared as secret recipes. I chose one that is meant to "taste like Yocco's" of Allentown, Pennsylvania. Its most distinctive feature comes from soaking the ground beef in cold water for a half hour before cooking. The result is a smooth, slightly grainy textured chili with no lumps that sits well in the bun. Yocco's version is flavored with just the right amount of oregano, cumin, and chili pepper flakes.
And to go with, Mercuri offers a few French fry recipes including Amarillo Cheese Fries and Wyoming Beer Battered Fries. California Ballpark Garlic Fries have the potential to be addictive, a great combination of garlic, parsley, and butter saucing the fries.
Mercuri's recipes and stories capture these homey touchstones of regional pride and you've got a choice. Mapquest the stands and plan a road trip or combine her recipes to make your own backyard specialty.
© 2007 Claudia Kousoulas
