The Wonder Bread Cookbook
from Wonder
Ten Speed Press, 2007
$12.95, hardback
100 pages
Julia Child once asked, "How can a nation be great if its bread tastes like Kleenex?" and we all know she was talking about Wonder Bread and its soft siblings. Over the past ten years, with the advent of artisinal bakers, much of America has experienced a bread epiphany. But for some, even those who love a good baguette, Wonder remains a touchstone of childhood comfort.
For its 85th anniversary, Wonder and Ten Speed have put together this book of recipes and history. And while the recipes have a goofy charm, even the brief history makes for interesting reading. The process of industrialization, of food or any other product is a record of change, from belted, whirring machines and vintage delivery trucks to massive, sterile factories and interstate distribution systems.
Wonder bread was introduced in Indianapolis in 1921, marketed nationally by 1925, and became the first major brand to be sold sliced in 1930. It was baked at World's Fairs and was a sponsor of the Howdy Doody show. An enriched product, Wonder was advertised as building strong bodies twelve ways by the 1950s though it was also building a national preference for soft bread, a benefit that escapes me.
Here's the thing. Even though Wonder may be the best selling brand white bread in the nation, according to the book, 127 million loaves a year, at least in my supermarket, Wonder is not found front and center in the bread aisle, which is styled with pseudo-homemade loaves arranged in rustic baskets, or with other sliced breads on eye-level shelves. It's tucked down in the corner, beneath the whole grain and low-carb loaves.
Most of the book's recipes are gathered from longtime fans and include dishes for breakfast and snacks, sandwiches of course, along with casseroles, desserts, and old-fashioned puddings. The last chapter, "It's a Wonder" features historic artifacts, recipes developed for the World's Fairs and promotion pamphlets. Even the authors admit that these are some of the "wackier" dishes. They include Pilgrim Pies, a kind of shepherds pie baked on a slice of bread, and a Deluxe Bridge Loaf layered with minced ham and eggs, iced with a cream cheese spread, and decorated with paprika. I love the pictures of these things, but has anyone ever tried to serve on, let alone eat it? And I don't think anyone could really love dishes like Jellied Eggs or Creamed Fish in Wonder Patty Shells.
Not that you really need one, but the book also includes a recipe for Bread Balls. Admit it, you did time in front of the television, rolling the bread into balls, eating some of them and tossing the rest at your brother or the dog.
You may never cook from this book. It's hard to make the effort for Wonder Beef Cups, though we gave them a try and could see the appeal of their friendly cafeteria flavor. But even if you never make Wonderstrudel or Wonderfully Crunchy Chicken Casserole, it's nice to know the recipes will always be there, along with the bright balloons on the Wonder package.
© 2007 Claudia Kousoulas
